‘High quality’, after all, is not an easy standard to achieve. For fabrics, ‘high quality’ means that they have passed through a myriad of textile tests, and proven to perform.

The tests we’re looking at today are:

1. Fabric rub counts, and the Martindale and Wyzenbeek tests
2. All about fabric pilling tests
3. Washing tests: colourfastness, fibre stability, shrinkage, aspect change
4. Light fastness in textiles

PRINCIPLE

Wyzenbeek test assesses fabric’s resistance for abrasion (mostly used in North America).

A fabric sample is placed in the Wyzenbeek machine. The fabric is rubbed in a back and forth motion on a cylinder covered in either cotton fabric or wire screen. The fabric sample is assessed at certain intervals to identify yarn breakage appreciable wear, colour loss and loss of pile.

The test is completed when 2 yarns are broken or when the appearance of the fabric has substantially changed.

PRINCIPLE

The pilling test assesses fabric’s resistance to pilling. The fabric sample is placed in the Martindale machine and tested for pilling. Compared to the Martindale test, the machine now rotates in a more compact motion, applying more pressure to a large surface area.

At intervals of 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 rubs the pilling is observed and assessed by means of a pilling scale (1 to 5). 5000 rubs is considered the final result of the test.

PRINCIPLE

The seam slippage test measures the fabric’s movement at the seam (mainly for upholstery fabrics).

The fabric samples are sewn together both in the warp and the weft direction. The fabric is pulled from both sides to 180N and then released to 5N. The opening of the seam where the two fabrics are sewn is measured.

PRINCIPLE

This test measures the amount of force needed to tear the fabric (mainly for upholstery fabrics).

A small slit is manually cut in the centre of the fabric. The fabric is then clamped in the machine at both ends. The fabric is then pulled from both ends until it starts to tear, at this point the force needed to tear is measured.

PRINCIPLE

The tensile strength and elongation test measures the fabric’s strength and percentage of elongation until rupture (mainly for upholstery fabrics).

A sample is clamped in the machine at both ends and pulled in opposite directions until breakage. The breaking force and percentage of elongation at rupture are recorded.

PRINCIPLE

Colour fastness to rubbing test (also known as the ‘Crock’ test) records the amount of colour that a fabric emits when rubbed (mainly for upholstery fabrics).

A fabric sample is placed in the crock test machine. The fabric sample is rubbed with a wet and dry cotton cloth. The amount of colour that stains the cotton club is evaluated against the grey scale (grade 1 to 5).

PRINCIPLE

Colour Fastness to Light (CFL) records the fading of the colour of the fabric when exposed to light.

A fabric sample is placed in the testing chamber together with a standard blue scale reference fabric. This blue scale wool fabric consisting of 8 dark to light blue shades, is the standard measurement tool used to record the fading of a fabric. The fabric sample and the blue scale reference sample are compared with one another and rated on a grade from 1 to 8. The higher the rating, the better the fabric will perform to daylight.

PRINCIPLE

The Colour fastness to water test records the amount of colour that a fabric loses when dipped in water.

A fabric sample is sewn together with a piece of standard multi-fibre fabric. It is first drenched in water and then placed under pressure between two plates. The colour change of the fabric sample is measured using the grey scale (grade 1-5). The multi-fibre fabric is also evaluated and rated on the grey scale which will determine the staining level to different fibres.

PRINCIPLE

The colour fastness to washing test records the fabric’s fading resistance to washing.

A fabric sample is sewn together with a piece of standard multi-fibre fabric. It is placed into water mixed with standard washing detergent. Small steel balls are added to simulate the mechanical action of a washing machine. The colour change of the fabric sample is measured using the grey scale (grade 1-5). The multi-fibre fabric is also evaluated and rated on the grey scale which will determine the staining level to different fibres.

PRINCIPLE

The Dimensional Stability test records the dimensional stability of the fabric when hanging.

The test fabric is hung in a room with controlled atmosphere for 3 weeks [T (20+-2)°C and RH (65+-4)%]. The fabric is measured at various intervals in warp and weft direction. Any difference in dimension is recorded.

PRINCIPLE

The Washing, Dry Cleaning and Ironing test records the fabric’s reaction to cleaning and ironing.

The test fabric is washed and dry cleaned. It is measured in the warp and weft direction. Any difference in dimension is recorded. The fabric is then ironed with and without steam and measured in the warp and weft direction. Any difference in dimension is recorded. After washing and drying, the colour change of the fabric is evaluated using the grey scale (grade 1 to 5).